2015 VINTAGE IN BURGUNDY
Decanter Magazine-“The 2015 vintage is an extraordinary one throughout the Côte d’Or. The red wines are truly great: rich, powerful and statuesque but almost always underpinned by juicy acidity. The distinctive characters of the region’s diverse terroirs, which can be occluded by over-ripeness in warm years, are articulately expressed. Nor, despite its richness and amplitude, is this a facile vintage. These are wines for the long haul, with serious reserves of ripe tannins hidden behind their generous fruit: they will deserve patience.
Some vignerons draw comparisons with the excellent 2005s, though yields were lower in 2015 and the wines are more concentrated. Others look to 1990 for an analogy. Perhaps the last word should go to Volnay’s Michel Lafarge, one of the Côte d’Or’s most thoughtful and experienced observers, who draws parallels with 1929s which he tasted as a young man in his family’s cellars. No other vintage in the past 60 years, he reflects, is really comparable.
In the Côte de Nuits, Bruno Clair describes 2015 as ‘an aristocratic vintage with finesse’. But it was not a copious harvest. Jacques Devauges at Clos de Tart explains: ‘The nights were hot in late June and July, and this led to berries dropping off the bunches, and consequently to lower yields.’ Moreover, the hot summer kept berries small, and thus with less juice than usual. Yet yields varieD. Crucially, the grapes remained healthy until harvest, and no sorting was required.”
DOMAINE JEAN GRIVOT
Domaine Jean Grivot is among the great names in Burgundian wine. Étienne Grivot and his wife Marielle (Patrick Bize’s sister) took over from Étienne’s father Jean Grivot in 1987. The cellar is in Vosne-Romanée where most of their vineyards are located. The domaine has been assembled over several generations to its current size of 15.5 hectares and includes holdings in three grand crus: Clos de Vougeot, Echézeaux, and Richebourg. Étienne’s approach is to constantly improve the quality of the wines and he has been willing to experiment and evolve his work in the vineyard and cellar over the years. Today, the vineyards are densely planted and farmed organically “sans certification,” while the aim in the cellar is for balance and clear expression of terroir.
Wines On Pre-Sell
2015 Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots $199.98*
Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er cru lies in the “Zone Vosnoise” or northern end of Nuits-Saint-Georges just below Les Damodes. It borders Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er just to its north. Its position slightly lower on the slope with deep soil full of pebbles results in a richer and fuller wine.
Wine Advocate 92-94 Points: The 2015 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots has an opulent, effervescent bouquet with copious red cherries, wild strawberry, marmalade and hints of allspice that all make for a very complex and quite riveting experience. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet candied entry, like the aromatics, forward and opulent in style with a rich, dense, spicy finish that feels as much Vosne-Romanée as Nuits Saint-Georges. It will need several years in bottle, but it should be a hell of a lot of fun once ready.
2015 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru $299.98*
Clos de Vougeot grand cru was acquired by Étienne’s grandfather, Gaston Grivot, in 1919. The total holding is 4.6 acres from the middle of the vineyard to the lower wall and the average vine age is 40 years old. A good Clos de Vougeot should be a complete wine without any one feature standing out. It is a perfect balance of power, aroma, and flavor.
Wine Advocate 95-97 Points: The 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a detailed, precise bouquet, very pure with ripe dark cherries, kirsch, orange sorbet and subtle graphite aromas. It is one of the classiest that you will come across from this ancient vineyard this year. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannin that feel a little fuller and suppler than the premier cru Vosne-Romanées. Grippy in the mouth with an effervescent finish, this is a long-term Clos de Vougeot that will age effortlessly over 20-30 years.
2015 Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg Grand Cru $1399.98*
Richebourg grand cru was acquired by Étienne’s father in 1984. The total holding is just 0.31 hectares from vines planted in 1949. Richebourg is one of the truly great grand crus of Burgundy. It is exotically spiced and gorgeously perfumed
Wine Advocate 97-99 Points: The 2015 Richebourg Grand Cru has a very intense bouquet, like many Richebourgs a little standoffish at first, though it soon opens up with powerful aromas of black cherries, anise, orange zest and wet stones. You still come away with the impression that you are only witnessing the tip of the aromatic iceberg. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin, vibrant red and black fruit with hints of mandarin and balsamic. It crescendos with multilayered, mineral-rich black fruit with a healthy pinch of white pepper and an otherworldly prolonged aftertaste. Stunning.
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